Guide The Challenge of K2: A History of the Savage Mountain

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Primitive Technology John Plant Inbunden. Overlord, Vol. Spara som favorit. Skickas inom vardagar. So I picked the best I could. Many of the climbers felt they were now stuck doing the grunt work of carrying supplies up the mountain with no chance for the glory at the end. Little grievances get blown out of proportion, and the summit decision was a multiplier. In the end, however, it was the same four climbers who were in position high up the mountain in early September to mount an assault on the summit.

A sense of urgency prevailed, because Whittaker had ordered a return of the porters on Sept.

One more turn of bad weather would clinch another American failure on K2. But the weather held. The big question became, which route would they take to the top?

Challenge of K2: a History of the Savage Mountain - Richard Sale - Häftad () | Bokus

They decided to split into two teams, with Roskelley and Ridgeway trying the Northeast route, while Reichardt and Wickwire, along with Terry Bech in support, traversed across the East face to the Abruzzi Ridge. The Abruzzi approach is the one used by the Italians in the first successful summit of K2 in and by far the most common way to finish K2. On Sept. Meanwhile, Reichardt and Wickwire made slow, at times arduous, but steady progress toward the summit, as Whittaker and Roberts watched in wonderment from Camp 3, peering through her telephoto lens as the tiny dots ascended.

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The two had spent a fitful night fearing that another storm was brewing that would thwart the expedition. Instead, Roberts awoke Whittaker at 2 a. Wickwire and Reichardt got it, the ever-elusive American summit of K2, at p.

K2, the savage mountain

Reichardt remembers the glow of the golden sun as it set, and the magnificent view of the Karakoram Range. Desperately cold without oxygen his tank had malfunctioned earlier or a down parka, Reichardt immediately headed down after posing for a few pictures. Wickwire, though, would linger for 40 minutes, taking more pictures, trying unsuccessfully to change the film in his camera. Though Wickwire was the only one of the four to use oxygen, it ran out after an hour. A stove that was providing heat ran out of fuel, and the replacement cartridge malfunctioned.

Wickwire shivered his way through the brutal night, the coldest of the entire trip at minus below with howling winds. He sustained himself with the adrenaline of the successful summit and thoughts of his wife and children back in Seattle. The energy level was incredible.

During the night, Wickwire began to slide several times, bringing him perilously close to a precipitous and deadly fall off the edge. Jehan Baig [one of the Pakistani porters] was played by one of our grips. We were using the crew! The guy who plays Fredrik Strang is one of our line producers. Ryan also delves into the past for his film, interviewing Walter Bonatti, a member of the Italian expedition that completed the first successful ascent of the mountain.

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But the success was shrouded in controversy: Bonatti, the youngest and fittest climber on the team, was in charge of bringing oxygen canisters to his teammates. He was forced to spend the night exposed to the elements, with no tent or sleeping bag, when his teammates deliberately moved the camp to a higher location to ensure he would not join them on their summit bid. Explaining his decision to include this storyline in the film, Ryan comments, "I started doing research, and I read Walter Bonatti's book [ The Mountains of my Life ], given that he had been on the first successful expedition.

He wrote so beautifully and when I read the story there were a lot of parallels, [in] what the mountain does to people. In his particular story, his life was ruined by Compagnoni and Lacedelli—[they branded him] a traitor—for having ambition and for being a very talented climber. What that said about the difference between now and 50 years ago is [that] now we have different climbing gear-better and lighter, better weather protection-but the mountain will still kill you in a heartbeat.

British mountaineer George Mallory famously quipped, "Because it's there," when asked why he wished to climb Everest.

Savage Mountain: 'The Summit' Reconstructs Tragedy on K2

In addressing the issues of "summit fever" and poor decision-making on part of the climbers, Ryan responds, "They had been there 67 days before making the summit push. They are there and looking at a big foot cliff of ice melting.

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The weather is perfect, you've been there for over 60 days and you are six hours away from your destination. And this is your last chance to do this. Are you going to turn around? Ryan's film delves into the peculiar characteristics of top tier mountaineers: ambition, obsession, confidence and blind optimism—a belief that they can defy the murderous odds. Watching The Summit reminded me of a quotation of renowned mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev, on his memorial on Annapurna: "Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve; they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion.

Darianna Cardilli is a Los Angeles-based documentary filmmaker and editor. She can be reached at www. Current Explore All Issues. Features Online Features Columns Topics.

K2: The Savage Mountain and the second highest in the world!

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